|
The
Balinese seem to be the most talented of all of Indonesia's
gifted artisans. Over the centuries there has been a steady
steam of immigrants introducing new ideas, coupled with
the generous patronage of Kingdoms past, Balinese artists
have become justly famous. Indeed the number of foreigners
who have been inspired by Bali as well as the number of
Indonesians from other islands who have come to Bali to
hone their craft are testimony to the importance of Bali
in the art world.
Until
this century Balinese artists produced work (paintings,
stone & wood carving etc.) under the patronage of wealthy
kings or as gifts to decorate the local temple. As such
the artists were only doing their part as a member of the
community and therefore never gave much thought to be recognized
for their efforts by signing their work. In addition, art
had to follow very stringent guidelines so whilst the quality
may have varied the content was quite standard. It wasn't
until the arrival of European artists that Balinese artists
learned to express themselves individually and then began
signing their work. |
|
Cloth
& Textiles
Bali
has basically 3 indigenous textiles: Endek, Gringsing and
Tenun Ikat. That being said most of the swaths of cloth
and fancy printed apparel on sale in Bali are really Batik
and native to Java, not Bali. The intricate designs on Batik
cloth are made by applying wax to the fabric prior to dying
each time another color is added. |
|
|
In
as much as Endek is really only popular with the Balinese
it is not mass produced - so it is quite safe to say that
any endek you purchase will have been hand made. It is a
laborious affair. The horizontal threads are laid out and
pre dyed with a desired pattern in a tie dye type of operation
( the fabric may be dyed several times with different colors
). Once dyed the threads are dried then woven into the vertical
threads on the loom. These vertical threads are only one
color -usually black. It is not until the weaving is complete
that one knows for sure the quality and clarity of the designer's
work. This is just a rough idea how the process works, it's
actually much more complicated than this with several people
- men included - to make just one bolt of cloth. The finished
bolt is about 20 feet long by 3.5 feet wide. It takes about
10 days just to weave one bolt of cloth. |
|

|
Now,
if you think that's tricky try it with both the vertical
and horizontal threads at the same time. Imagine a weaver
must come up with a design then "tye dye" both the horizontal
and vertical threads separately 2-3 times depending on the
number of colors used. Even the slightest miscalculation
when dying the yarn or a mistake by the weaver and months
of work are lost. This is basically how Gringsing is produced
in the Balinese Village of Tenganan - one of two or three
places in the entire world capable of producing this extraordinary
textile.
The
third cloth, tenun ikat is also popular in Bali. Like endek
the horizontal threads are dyed and woven into a solid vertical
thread on the loom. The difference is that the patterns
are solid colored blocks or simple crossing patterns. This
cloth is also mostly produced by hand and is very popular
in fashionable circles for clothing, home furnishings and
accessories. |
|
Traditional
Kamasan Art
This
is the most traditional of all Balinese paintings. Originating
in the Klungkung Regency during the reign Kingdom of Gelgel
it was widely admired throughout Bali. The artists specializing
in this art form are known as "Sangging". In days gone by
these Snagging artists would often be commissioned to travel
to other kingdoms to decorate a palace or temple with this
style of painting.
Kamasan
is easily distinguished in the market. The paint color is
predominately orange (sometimes blue) and the theme always
depicts Hindu epics and are based on the Javanese Wayang
characters. |
|
|
The
characters are divided into two camps: Good, ( those with
refined facial features and slim bodies) and Evil, (those
with distorted faces, red color and distended bodies). The
painting is a large canvas divided up into panels with each
panel telling the story of a well known adventure. Years
ago Kamasan art was placed primarily in temples as wall
hangings, used as curtains, or as banners during festivals.
(Go to the Kerta Goa Hall of Justice in Klungkung to see
fine examples of this style). The paintings are used much
the same way today with restaurants now often using the
canvas for menu covers.
Kamasan
still today has Sangging artists dedicated to painting in
the traditional Kamasan style. Easily the best known Kamasan
artist is I Nyoman Mandra who has his own school, and does
restoration work. Bpk. Mandra can be found in Klungkung.
|
Modern
Art
As
mentioned earlier starting this century Balinese artists
came under more direct influence of Western artists with
the arrival of European artists. The most famous of these
were German, Walter Spies and Dutchman, Rudolf Bonnet. These
two painters taught the Balinese painters new, more realistic
and expressionistic art - scenes from every day life, landscapes
and the like - which now dominates the paintings produced
on Bali. Later on and together with local artist Gede Agung
Sukawati the Pitamaha Painters Association was established.
Styles which sprang from this effort are briefly described
below. When looking to buy keep in mind that prices vary
widely depending on the size and the amount and clarity
of detail. |
|
|
Batuan
These
large paintings are easily identified because every square
inch of the canvas is filled with tiny figures going about
life's daily activities (some quite graphic if you look
hard enough). Usually bright colored, these paintings seem
to be getting funnier and funnier (or sarcastic depending
on your view of video camera tourists being painted into
village life) as the years go by. |
Keliki
Keliki
paintings are generally the very small paintings you see
hanging on pillars and odd spaces in different shops. These
too are crammed with little images but look closely though
and you will see that the subject matter is very different
- usually the subject is the supernatural with fantastically
detailed demons. |
Pengosekan
These
are the bird, flower and butterfly paintings you see all
over. The amount of detail and correct proportion determine
the price but works of the best (i.e. I Made Supartha commands
up to US$ 5,000 for a good sized painting). |
Ubud
With
highly stylized human features -strong lines, long necks,
proud posture, and the like identify these paintings to
have been influenced by Walter Spies. The paintings are
usually large and colorful without being bright. Such artists
as Dewa Putu Bedil are always in demand and you may well
have to commission the best and wait quite some time before
you own one of this style. |
|
Modern
Nowadays
there are many Balinese and Indonesian artists who practice
what can best be described as Modern Art. Some like Made
Winata, Krijono, and Joko amongst others have achieved a
great deal of commercial success combining their Indonesian
perspective with abstract figures and new colors. |
|
|
The
Keris
These
daggers with their wavy blades are famous the world over.
Going back as far as Hindu Javanese of Majapahit in the
13th century, these beautiful daggers are much more than
a weapon - they are a revered symbol of the man who owns
it and each Keris is deeply believed to have a life and
spirit of its own. Indeed there are stories of kings, too
busy with affairs of the palace to attend their own weddings,
letting the Keris stand in as the groom. And not just any
Keris will do, a Keris must be matched spiritually to its
owner to protect him from harm.
Since
the Keris is found in many parts of Indonesia, there are
correspondingly many different styles of blades, handles
and sheaths - none any better than another just personal
preference. In Bali the Keris is usually quite large and
has a wavy double edged blade ( be careful when you unsheathe
it, it's sharp! ) with an ornately carved handle (or hilt)
representing one of the gods from the Ramayana epic. Also
with the Balinese Keris the area connecting the blade to
the handle is embedded with semi precious stones as is the
sheath. As a comparison, the Keris from Java are usually
smaller and less presumptuous and the Keris from North Sumatra
are usually with straight, one sided blades. |
|
An
old, valuable Keris can easily fetch US$ 5,000 but an average
Keris is about US$ 200 - US$ 500. When buying, attention
to detail is everything. |
|
Masks
Practically
from the time you step off the plane you will see masks
of different sizes, shapes and colors. Whilst these days
many masks are produced solely as tourist souvenirs not
to take masks seriously in Bali would be a mistake. When
a Westerner dons a mask at a party it is to pretend he is
someone else. For Indonesians - especially Balinese to don
a mask is to begin living the life of the mask. Masks used
in performances of sacred dances are sacred and as such
revered and kept so in temples. You will not find such masks
sitting idly in a store waiting to be purchased. That being
said, there are still fine masks - all works of art - that
are no longer used available for sale (for a price).
Without going too deeply into (there are entire books devoted
to the subject) most masks you will see are representations
of Ramayana Epic. The masks with refined features such as
a short pointed nose and white face represent Noblemen,
while those with garish features - red faces with bulbous
noses and missing teeth represent buffoons, idiots, liars
and cheats. If you look closely at the eyes you will be
able to see Chinese characters as well - they are the ones
with the thinner eyes. |
|
|
Lastly,
today masks are being made in modern shapes like a crescent
moons and painted abstract colors but these are really only
for souvenirs and decoration. A fine mask properly displayed
and well lit adds a lot to any home or office. Most of the
best masks can be found in the village of Mas. |
|
|
Stone
Carving
Driving
around Bali it would difficult not to be impressed with
the majesty of the intricate stone carvings that adorn the
thousands of temples that dot the island. This stone is
known locally as "paras" and is not really stone in the
Western sense. Rather paras is volcanic ash mixed with sand
and clay and compressed over the centuries into a hard material
similar to sandstone or soapstone. As such the material
is quite soft, decays easily and moss seems to grow on it
overnight - so if you are walking through a rice paddy and
happen to see an old, blackened, moss covered statue do
not think it is centuries old - it may be 5 or at the most
30 years old !
Traditionally
stone has been carved into the shapes of demons and deities
to decorate temples and courtyards of royal families - rarely
does the average Balinese have any stone relief in his living
area. |
|
Stone
carvers have been around a lot longer than painters and
have never been subject to the same strict rules as painters.
The imaginations of the stone carvers has always been allowed
to run riot i.e. gods with multiple sex organs and even
scenes incorporating everyday life with today's technology
such as airplanes are now carved into temple relieves.
To
get a good idea of the range of items for sale a trip through
Batubulan is a nice day spent. Whether or not you are ready
to ship a 500 lb. statue back home is up to you but almost
any statue would be focal point of your garden. |
Wood
Carving
Wood
carving shares a lot of similarities with stone carving
inasmuch as both were used primarily to decorate temples.
You can see traditional wood carving used to decorate the
pillars and beams used to support the roofs of temples (and
lately restaurants as well). However understanding that
wood carvings are much easier to transport and have more
practical uses in home decorating it should come as no surprise
to learn that Westerners have begun to have a strong influence
on what is now being produced. |
|
|
Not
that that is all bad. Traditionally wood carvers have also
had pretty much free reign to experiment and many have become
more sculptors than carvers with the best wood carvers turning
unusual pieces of wood that most folks would just as soon
throw away into masterpieces. However, still the most sought
after works are the traditional Ramayana figurines.
There
are many varieties of wood used. As a general rule of thumb
all things being equal the softer the wood the faster it
grows and the easier it is to carve and hence the price
is lower. Popular soft woods are merantie, crocodile and
hibiscus. Harder woods such as nangka (jackfruit), and kampor
are much heavier and can be more intricately carved. Either
way a word of caution - The wood is not always thoroughly
dry before being carved and if you take it to a climate
with less humidity it may crack. So sometimes it's better
to take the older carving that's collected its share of
dust and polish it up yourself when you get back home. |
|
|
Kites
Whilst
maybe not a traditional art form, in fact kites were only
recently introduced into Bali by the Japanese during their
occupation of Indonesia in World War 2, the Balinese have
quickly turned them into an art form. It is not unusual
to see a group of men struggling to put a kite 4 meters
(yes, 4 meters - some of these contraptions can be down
right dangerous to passing aircraft !) into the back of
a truck to take down to the beach. In fact there are laws
against flying kites too close around the airport. The shapes
can be winged eagles or tall ships complete with main mast
and sails ! Truly a delight. And when these really big kites
are airborne the wind on the string produces a loud, hypnotic
humming sound. Serious competitions have begun to be staged
with international competitors trying their best against
the Balinese. Airworthy small versions make interesting
souvenirs for young children. |
Under Water life of Gili Tepekong
A short boat ride from Candidasa brings you to Gili Tepekong. Tepekong offers some of the most impressive diving in Bali . Great walls, the canyon, strong currents coupled with superb coral and marine life makes this a dive for experienced divers only.
On these excellent drift dives you can expect to see all kinds of pelagics such as grey reef sharks, eagle rays, barracuda, and many other spectacular fish. The currents bring in a lot of fresh water so you can normally expect excellent visibility. Conditions here are very changeable so a good guide is essential. If conditions are not so good, there are a number of other sites close by that also offer excellent diving.
|
|
|
Gunarsa Museum
30 minutes by car from Candi Dasa.
It known as Museum Seni Lukis Klasik Bali, the Gunarsa Museum of Classical & Modern Art, is located in the town of Klungkung. The museum was founded by Dr. Nyoman Gunarsa, who was himself a Balinese painter.
|
Gunarsa's studio remains in the museum, and his works are on display in the western building. Gunarsa's works range from abstract, to paintings of musicians and Balinese dancers. His works use bright colors and also feature scenes from Balinese daily life.
Gunarsa was born in the nearby village of Banda, and originally started the museum as part of his bhaktiyoga (service) to the art world. The museum has a large collection works by Balinese contempory artists, as well as art from temples that were in the process of renovation.
|
Stone and wood statues occupy the main building as well as classical works from the 17th-19th century. The upstairs section has traditional Balinese artwork, historical items, furniture, masks, sculptures, embroidery. These pieces often use the Ramayana and Mahabharata as their theme. A collection of gamelan instruments is used by Balinese school children to practice, music and dance. |
|